Organic and Biodynamic Wines
Many wine purchasers are becoming very aware of both Certified Organic and Certified Biodynamic wines but really don’t understand the nuances of each. We’ll go through a brief outline to identify the commonalities and differences to better illuminate your buying decision.
At the most fundamental level, both organic and biodynamic wines do not permit the use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or genetic engineering (GMO) in their wine-making process.
Organic Wines
It is important to note that several countries and even the European Union have differing definitions and standards for obtaining certification. But know that they are all rigorous, ongoing, and potentially costly. Cost is an important factor and many wineries practice organic and/or sustainable farming practices which at the most elementary level is meant to leave the land in better condition for future generations. For this brief presentation I’ll be more focused on the United States but if you see the following labels on imported wine, know they are organically certified within the EU or their country but forgo the US requirements to obtain USDA certification for their label.
The United States National Organic Program (NOP) oversees and develops the rules & regulations for the production, handling, labeling, and enforcement of all USDA organic products. They ensure that grapes are grown without synthetic fertilizers and in a manner that protects the environment and preserves the soil. Other agricultural ingredients that go into the wine, such as commercial yeasts also have to be certified organic. Any non-agricultural ingredients must be specifically allowed on the National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances and cannot exceed 5% of the total product.
Biodynamic Wine
In a sense, Certified Biodynamic Wine is a first cousin of Certified Organic Wine. Biodynamics was introduced by Rudolf Steiner an Austrian philosopher in the 1920s who is best known in the U.S. educational system via its Waldorf Schools. The leading international certifying body for biodynamic wines is Demeter International. In 1995, Biodyvin was formed and is a group of over 200 winegrowers in France, Belgium, Germany, Greece, Italy, Portugal, Switzerland, and Spain that is also gaining recognition as an alternative to Demeter Certified Biodynamics.
Like Certified Organic Wines, Biodynamics recognizes that the land must be sustained and improved for future generations. Biodynamic farming is a regenerative and holistic approach to agriculture, gardening, and food production and processing. The use of synthetic compounds throughout the grape-growing process and the actual wine-making process is not permitted and winemaker invention is minimal.
Steiner believed that since plants react to every aspect of their environment, everything in farming should likewise consider each component, all the way to the moon and back. So part of Steiner’s biodynamic philosophy involved farming in sync with the lunar calendar. This schedules planting, pruning, and harvesting according to the moon’s cycles in order to harness nature’s energy and rhythms.
A Quick Note on “Made With Organic Grapes”
Something that is becoming more commonplace in wine labeling is the “made with organic grapes” usually appearing on a label. To a large extent, I interpret this as a somewhat misleading marketing ploy. What this identifier actually means is that the wine must be made entirely from certified organic grapes, i.e. not using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides but additional ingredients used in the winemaking process itself need not be organic. Essentially, these producers cannot use either the USDA Certified Organic label or Certified Biodynamic label!
Sulfates and Copper
Sulfates are naturally occurring in the process of growing and fermenting grapes. It is fundamentally very challenging for a winemaker to not use sulfates but by definition, it is an organic compound. No additional sulfates are permitted to be added to adhere to being Certified Organic and the wine itself, when tested, must have under 10 parts per million. With Biodynamic certification sulfates can be up to 100 ppm, ten times the legal amount permitted in USDA Certified Organic. It may not be, but the possibility exists.
Copper is a synthetic compound but permitted primarily for the prevention of vineyard diseases in both Conventional, Biodynamic, and Organic farming though its use must be justified as a last option. The reasoning behind this is the spraying of copper is considered a contact spray and not a sap-penetrating compound. However, there is a recognition that extensive copper use builds up within the soil so long-term use is highly discouraged and the EU has taken an even more restrictive tone for its use in all farming practices.
So, the Important Thing – Purchasing Decisions and Taste
If you care about the environment and future generations it is virtually impossible to not recognize the positive contributions of sustainable and regenerative farming practices for our future as reflected in Organic and Biodynamic certifications. In fact, the best of both worlds is recognizing that any wine producer willing to invest the time, energy, and expense to obtain both certifications is worth considerable loyalty in your purchasing decisions.
One of the surprising differences between Organic and Biodynamic wine-making is the permissibility of using higher amounts of sulfates in Biodynamic wines versus Organic. In the US it is legal to have up to 350 ppm in conventional wine though the average is around 125 ppm and most are significantly lower. So it is quite possible that those with sensitivity to sulfates may have greater exposure to Biodynamic wines compared to Organic. The best of both worlds is a Certified Organic/Biodynamic wine as it will not exceed the 10 ppm permissible with Certified Organic in the U.S.
As I noted at the beginning of this article, there are many farmers who simply cannot afford to pursue either certification but fully practice sustainable farming. The overlap between organic and biodynamic certifications is extensive with Certified Biodynamic having an ethereal component that is more difficult to scientifically verify. Critical reading of numerous articles on both certified Organic and Biodynamic wines can cherry-pick studies indicating that by the very nature of the care and effort required for either or both certifications, it thereby results in a better wine. That is somewhat of a fallacy.
Some of the premium and many of the smaller wineries do practice sustainable or regenerative farming and hand-harvest individual grapes multiple times at night and hand-sort to identify only the best grapes to ferment. They too value the land and recognize both the science and art of winemaking. A UCLA study in 2021 compared over 120 thousand wines in three French specialist magazines and revealed that organic wines ranked 6.2% better than conventional wines and biodynamic wines were rated 11.8% higher. In other tastings, it was concluded that biodynamic wines tend to taste bolder than conventional wines. Yet other professional wine tasters indicated that especially red wines, both organic and biodynamic, had more noted floral aromas and subtler bouquets so contrary to the “bolder” than conventional wine tastings.
So, the bottom line. Can the average wine consumer like us taste a difference between organic, biodynamic, and conventional wines? The answer is probably no. But we all have a reason to support Organic and Biodynamic wines as part of our wine-purchasing process.
