Portugal’s “Other” Wine Region

For those planning a trip to Portugal, an absolute must is a tour of the Douro Valley starting in the city of Porto in Northern Portugal.  Whether by train, car or boat this should be on your bucket list.  Famous for its Port wine, this UNESCO World Heritage site offers a unique history and unforgettable scenery. There are ample on-line reviews related to formalized tours and recommendations for planning your own visit.  You would be hard-pressed to book a subpar tour though my only suggestion is that you plan an entire day trip so you can enjoy the full experience. Anything less and you will feel rushed.

Let’s talk about a slightly less famous wine region in Northern Portugal that is certainly not as touristy as the Douro but offering some equally gorgeous views and producing the most quaffable wines you will drink during your entire visit to Portugal!

 The Region

Slightly over an hour drive north of Porto you are in the heart of the wine region known as Vinho Verde  or “green wine”. No, not because the wine produced in this region is green but rather the recognication that this is Portugal’s wettest region and therefore a vivid green landscape compared to most other parts of Portugal.  It also references the fact that most of the wines produced here are meant to be consumed young. Considered white wine country, this region does produce a variety of roses and reds but the absolute star of this region is the white wine made from the Alvarinho grape. What Riesling is to Germany, Malbec for Argentina or Shiraz from Australia, the region pays homage to Alvarinho best exemplified by the numerous colorful road signs highlighting an Alvarinho grape bunch on the Alvarinho Trail and a museum solely dedicated to this grape. 

 A good start to your day and an interesting, if not quirky introduction to the region, is a visit to a museum dedicated to the Alvarinho grape. Museo Alvarinho located in the heart of the charming town of Moncao is all things Alvarinho.  Providing the history of the region, information about the grape itself, exposure for several producers in the vicinity and a classic tasting of several of the region’s wines, this was a fun little side adventure worth an hour visit.

The Grape

Alvarinho or its better-known Spanish equivalent, Albarino, thrives in both the northern portions of Portugal and Spain that have a cooler, wetter, maritime climate.  The majority of the white wine produced from this grape is low alcohol, maybe 11-12% with medium plus acidity and when first poured in your glass, has some effervescence due in part to the possible injection of carbon dioxide during bottling.  It is an easy-drinking wine.  Given that Portugal is per capita the largest consumer of fish in Europe, especially cod, this is the wine that perfectly pairs with seafood and I would highly recommend you pour either the Portuguese or Spanish equivalent the next time you have seafood for a meal.  And given its acidity, in lieu of pricier Champagne or other sparkling wines, this would pair perfectly with raw oysters.

The Winery

The penultimate excursion in the Vinho Verde region was a family-owned winery Soalheiro, that translates to “sunny” and is located several miles southwest of Melgaco, https://soalheiro.com. This winery checks all my boxes – smallish, family-owned, unpretentious, innovative and most importantly, producing a variety of outstanding wines.  It is worthwhile to schedule a tasting at this winery when you need a respite from Porto.

First planting Alvarinho in the mid-1970s, the winery is now in its third generation, operated by siblings Maria Joao and Antonio Luis and their mother, Maria Palmira Cerdeira. Maria is a veterinarian by trade but quite active in the winery having spearheaded organic farming practices for their vineyards since 2006 and instrumental in introducing ecological practices such as innovative bottles and multiple “green” initiatives. Antonio is the oenologist clearly looking to push the boundaries of wine production in the Minho region.  Soalheiro has their own vineyards but work with over 150 small, family-owned vineyards.   You get a sense of extended family when visiting the winery as their sizeable conference room has a wall of pictures of the owners of these other farmers producing their grapes.

Our host for the Sunday afternoon tour was the utterly charming and dynamic Monica.  Her friendly demeanor is only enhanced by her thorough knowledge of the winery, its history and more impressively, her technical knowledge.  There was not a single question asked regarding production methods, aging, varietal blending and export sales that she did not readily answer.  Just a charming person that projected a love of her job and the people she works with.

The Wines

Mentioning innovation, it should be noted that Soalheiro planted Alvarinho at the highest elevations in Portugal which translates to optimal diurnal temperature variances to help maintain acidity in their various Alvarinho-oriented wines.  They were also the first to introduce sparkling wines from Alvarinho in the entire region.

Under Antonio’s leadership they have perfected the production of a rose blending Pinot Noir and Alvarinho that duplicates the classic roses of Provence, France.  As a lover of quality rose, especially from Southern France, with its distinctive minerality, Soalheiro’s rose absolutely hit the spot.

Amongst their portfolio they produce a Natural wine.  I tend to avoid purchasing these wines primarily because of their inconsistency and unpredictability.  Monica, our host, being very observant while mentioning their Natural wine production, must have noted my lack of enthusiasm.  Though not part of the tasting, she decided to open a bottle of their Natural wine - Soalheiro Nature Alvarinho Bio and confidently stated that I would like this one. Without a doubt this minimal vintner intervention wine was the best Natural wine I have ever tasted.

And finally, the most impressive and unique wine I tasted on our visit – the apply-named Alvorone. The name is a play on the classic Amarone wines using the appasimento style of production in Veneto, Italy where a percentage of Alvarinho grapes are dried for several months with no noble rot. This is a dry, white wine that since it goes through a second fermentation, has an ABV of 15%.  With a one year regime in new oak and six months in stainless steel this full-bodied, medium plus acidity wine has a long finish with primary aromas of yellow peach and gooseberry and ends with the characteristic acidity of traditional Alvarhino.  Just an outstanding wine that I wish I could purchase in the States.

Most of Soalheiro’s wines are currently sold in Europe but this is going to change as the September, 2024 issue of Wine Spectator published an article about this region and highlighted several outstanding wineries with Soalheiro being one of them.  And in August, 2024,Wine Enthusiast just named them one of the 30 wineries you must visit in Portugal.